Peking Duck Anyone?

Thanks to "Raise the Red Lantern" and the spectacular Gongli, I've always been romantically captivated by Tiannanmen and the Forbidden City. Not that it had anything to do much with the movie but just the idea of life in China among the red walls. This was the year (2005) that I was in constant pain with my knees and it was after this trip that I decided to go and have it fixed. Why is that important? Well you'd know when you've had a bad knee and you're itching to climb, jump and basically walk like normal people....

Beijing, like any other industrial country has its fair share of pollution and I doubt that it will get any better. Most of the time, this is exacerbated by Guangzhou - a major culprit of breathe ala haze!

With the Olympics looming in 2008, Beijing has stepped up to meet the needs of an ever-growing tourism industry both local and foreign. I was pretty amazed at the increase in numbers of public lavatories across the city but they have yet to embrace the idea of a 'dry' toilet. It is also disturbing at how fast urbanisation is creeping into the older sections of Beijing as they're doing a way with a lot of the hutongs i.e. old housing across the city and pulling them down in the name of progress. Have a stroll around these areas, it is very humbling.

It was good to be here to see what the 'new' economy has to offer. The other goal for this trip was to shop for antiquities, with my not so fluent mandarin and a little hand gesturing, we were able to have a taste of what's truly out there. The markets were also interesting especially local ones - it was the first time, I've seen a real chinese market and it was amazing i.e. very real especially the seafood section where you can choose your own eel while they're still in their tanks wriggling about -pick me! pick me!. There were hundreds!!

Food was also pretty accessible - the famous Peking duck is nothing to die for but worth the visit just to see what the fuss is all about. I still have a thing for Shanghainese food though so the duck went unnoticed by the palate. We recommend staying at a hotel that is close to the metro - it will get you to Wangfujing and the square quite easily.

Tiannanmen Square is like any other square - big open spaces and an endless ant-like queue to see Mao in his mausoleum. Not my cup of tea - dead people deserve to be buried and queues are a waste of time especially when you want to see it all. Of course, there was the 1989 student revolt that caused an uproar but like any communist state, it is hard to believe that people are not used to such things by now. Tried feeling nostalgic but failed.

The Forbidden city sadly is going through massive "conservation" if they can call it that. Old tiles are being replaced with new and cobbled walkways replaced with grey ones everywhere. It would have been good to have kept the cobbled stones - I can't say that I like the grey tiles that much but the Chinese has a history of not wanting to embrace the past so the cycle continues unabated. We also recommend visiting China now before money takes over the entire country and everything becomes too sanitised.


The Forbidden city itself is in fact pretty large - divided into sections in which the Emperor would address his court at different tiers of the city according to whom is seeking his audience and their ranks in society. It was a very hierarchical society then and still is now. Artisans selling their wares are accorded sections of the city circumnavigating the entire wall. Not too sure whether this is still the case now but it would have sustained itself pretty well.

At the far end of each corner of the city are bell towers. Here is an image of what it looks like on the outside and of my partner climbing down from one. Yes, everything is well inclined so get real good shoes that grips well and hold on tight.

The great wall is amazing. We were lucky enough to have had the opportunity to arrange our very own driver that took us to Mutianyu. It is further away (30-40 minutes by car) than usual but the good thing was that there was no one there to spoil our view and experience. The hotel you're in will have a travel desk and they do speak good English and many more are learning too - so be ready to be accosted by strangers wanting to know whether you're in need of directions. It is cheaper to do it on your own really rather than on a day trip package.

I have to admit that climbing the wall was very challenging especially for someone our age - we were just far too unfit to do much and did not want to admit it.

Along the trail, we were inundated by locals selling us photographic books. They're not pushy so a little smile goes a long way and if you do intend to buy, they're much cheaper here than in town so bargain hard.

The view is spectacular and you'll have to admit that this is as good as it gets. Each section is connected by a watch tower but the climb itself as you can see is not very forgiving especially for someone with a bad knee. I recommend one watch tower at a time and if you're not keen - go to the one closer to the city. But be forewarned - there'll be thousands trying to take a picture with you in the background.

So I say goodbye to Beijing. Next Stop Shanghai & Xian in 2008...

One final pic before I go.... the smallest car in the world - able to fit via parallel park along the high street of hutongville at the flick of a button plus one extra chinese on the side.